An Expert Guide to Dubrovnik


Medieval and Baroque splendour on the Adriatic

Dubrovnik is one of the world’s most magnificent walled cities, overlooking the calm blue Adriatic. Once the capital of the mighty sea-faring Republic of Ragusa (1358-1808), it's now Croatia’s most upmarket destination. Historically, this diminutive republic was sophisticated, refined and cultured. Today, the pedestrian-only Old Town – packed with aristocratic palazzi and elegant Baroque churches, contained within sturdy medieval fortifications – draws hundreds of thousands of visitors annually, including glamorous names such as Beyoncé, Roman Abramovich, Sir Roger Moore and Naomi Campbell. Beyond the walls, attractions include wine bars, classy seafood restaurants and five-star hotels.

And then there's the glorious rock-and-pebble coast, with beaches, scuba diving and sea kayaking. Some of the best beaches lie on Lapad peninsular, two miles (three kilometres) west of town; or you might try tiny Lokrum islet, with its botanical garden (you can get taxi-boats from the old town harbour); or the pine-scented Elaphiti islands (ferry from Gruž port).

Eat

Gianni's, near the Maritime Museum (Ulica kneza Damjana Jude bb), serves delicious artisanal ice creams and sorbets, plus exquisite local cakes and pastries, all made by the owner, Đani, former pastry chef at Michelin-starred 360°. Try stonska torta made from macaroni pasta, walnuts and chocolate. 

Do

If you're visiting in May-June or September-October, Banje Beach, (Frana Supila 10b; 00 385 99 314 64 85) immediately outside the Old Town, is a fantastic place to swim and sunbathe. You can take your own towel and lie on the pebbles, or pay extra for a sunbed. Though like the rest of Dubrovnik, it does get very crowded in peak season (July and August). 

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